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Two weeks ago, on a Stellar International/USC Marshall women’s business leadership trip to China I found myself in the remarkable historic town of Lijiang, in China’s southwestern Yunnan province. Dubbed the “Venice of Asia” for its centuries- old maze of canals and bridges, the town is set in a dramatic landscape in the foothills of the southern Himalayas.
Lijiang is home to China’s Naxi ethnic minority, a group descended from Tibetan nomads, and known for their unique architectural style and matriarchal society. With its well preserved old city and rustic charm, it’s not surprising that Lijiang has been a honeymoon favorite for domestic travelers since tourism was first promoted there in 1994. But other than backpackers, the town remained largely undiscovered to Western travelers until now. With the influx of a few major luxury hotels, Lijiang is poised to become the next “it” destination in China for the “been there, done that” crowd.
One of the few remaining authentic ancient towns in China, Lijiang was recognized in 1997 as a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is the capital of the Naxi people, one of China’s 56 ethnic groups, and was an important commercial center along the Silk Road from Yunnan to Tibet. In traditional Naxi society, women were the heads of the family structure and the main laborers. Evidence of this continues to the present: many of the construction sites we passed en route to Lijiang were staffed with women.
Fortunately, the modern construction is outside of Lijiang’s Old Town which remains uniquely preserved. Unlike other historic Chinese cities, the central government decided to leave the Old Town untouched and restrict modern development to a new city nearby. As a result, the Old Town, known as “Dayan”, is reachable only by foot – and features a wonderful network of cobblestone lanes, craft shops, elaborately-carved archways and elegant courtyards.
Beyond exploring the Old Town, there is plenty else to see around Lijiang. A short ride from the Old Town, we took a cable car up to the summit of Jade Dragon Snow mountain, a glacier that forms part of the Himalayas’ Yungling mountains. At an altitude above 18,000 feet, I learned the oxygen cans we were handed were not just for photo ops. Those needing more action hopped on inner tubes at what must be the world’s highest tubing park.
For more tranquil touring, there’s Baisha village, a centuries-old Naxi community with exquisite frescoes from the Ming dynasty. And for scenic views, there’s the Tiger Leaping Gorge, the world’s deepest gorge, and Black Dragon Pool, a picturesque pond in Jade Spring Park, a short walk from the Old Town.
Viewing these sites is far more comfortable now that a few luxury hotels have arrived. Two five star resorts have recently opened in ShuHe – ten minutes from Old town Lijiang and a third is in development. High end hotels previously shied away from investments in this area of China because of its remoteness and development lag. That attitude has now changed. Singapore-based Banyan Tree resorts opened its Lijiang resort in 2006 and boasts 55 Naxi-style villas -- each with amazing views of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. In April, Accor’s top level brand opened Hotel Pullman Lijiang Resort & Spa, with 79 villas and 51 hotel rooms fusing modern architecture with traditional Naxi-inspired designs. An Aman resort is also reportedly in the works – locals confirm it will be in Lion Hill in the Old Town of Lijiang – but the chain has yet to make an official announcement.
Fortunately for these resorts and their guests, the trip to Lijiang is about to become much easier. The local government has invested a billion yuan to expand the city’s airport. We landed in a gleaming new domestic terminal designed to mimic the traditional sweeping roofs of Naxi homes but made from modern elements like glass and steel. The terminal, which opened last year, will increase the number of direct regional flights. Next up is a new international terminal which will facilitate direct international flights and increase throughput to 4 million passengers a year. The reduced travel time will surely appeal to foreign travelers. From Beijing, it took us an entire day to get to Lijiang – a five hour flight to Yunnan’s capital, Kunming, followed by a 40 minute flight to Lijiang airport and then an hour bus ride to the old city.
As Anthony Myers, manager of the new Pullman Hotel told me, “the secret of Lijiang is getting out.” Pamela Lassers of custom tour operator Abecrombie & Kent concurs, noting that trips to the region have been increasingly popular among their clients and the firm will feature the region prominently in the future.
Among our group, there were several – me included – that doubted the day long trip to Lijiang would be worth it. Those doubts evaporated shortly after landing.
