London may still have its traditional black cabs, double-decker busses, red phone booths, the West End theatre district and that rhythmic "mind the gap" phrase as some of the more familiar reminders of the city's culture.
But a lot has changed over the last decade in this capital city as London has taken on the buzz of a startup haven with tech accelerators and incubators, and with the Olympics not far behind it, become a model of a well-run modern metropolis. As an occasional visitor to the city, it can be easier to spot these not-so-subtle changes that locals may not pick up on a daily basis.
For one, the city has become so internationally diversified that it can be rare to hear English on the tube.
Then too, the city has a less formal feel about it, and with it, a general decline in genteel manners. I observed a young woman on the Circle Line dig into her bag for a plastic carton of sushi, pour on soy sauce and with the dish perched on her lap, devour the sushi in front of all us passengers. Just when we thought she had finished her meal, out comes a second portion!
I was in London to do some reporting on the new Silicon Roundabout that's sprung up in the gritty East End district and to host Silicon Dragon London, where I chatted with Savio Kwan, the former COO of Alibaba and Jack Ma's right-hand man. The area is home to Google campus where co-working space TechHub, accelerators Seedcamp and Entrepreneurs First, a crowdfunding platform Seedrs and dozens of early stage startups such as data analytics firm Growth Intelligence.
It used to be that luxury hotels in London didn't pay much attention to amenities that Americans have grown accustomed to such as fitness clubs. But not anymore. The Four Seasons at Canary Wharf -- now bustling as a financial headquarters and barely resembling its former gray, desolate state -- sports a Virgin Active sports club for use by its guests. There's a marvelous glass-encased indoor swimming pool overlooking the Thames and the state-of-the-art club offers the usual weight-lifting machines and yes, yoga classes.
Not to be outdone, the recently renovated Four Seasons at Park Lane, which has to-die-for suites with stunning views of Hyde Park, private dining rooms, and working fireplaces, has devoted the entire top floor to a spa and fitness center. With its location in the high-end commercial Mayfair area of central London, talk of private equity deals and hedge funds can be heard among the well-groomed clientele.
Traditional still rules at The Cavendish dating from the 1830s on Jermyn Street, amid the gentleman's clothing shops and galleries yet close to the action at Piccadilly Square. The lobby bar is popular with theatre-goers and business execs alike, and its Petrichor restaurant serves up British recipes with ingredients from local farms and producers while the nearby Fortnum & Mason store offers classic English biscuits and strawberry preserves.
The restaurants offer a lot more than traditional British cuisine such as shepherd's pie and bangers and mash served in pubs. French onion soup and Indian curries are just as common fare today in bistros and cafes. (Try the Bistrot Bruno Loubet at the Zetter near Farringdon Station for exceptional tasty French dishes.)
One thing won't change and that's the damp, chilly weather and short, dark days common this time of year. I've always thought though that spring comes a little earlier to London than say, New York City. Before I left on this trip, I spotted a few tulips peaking through at a garden in Berkeley Square. I can't wait to go back in spring!
