In recent years we at Forbes Travel Guide have witnessed a shift from the stuffy environs associated with some fine-dining establishments to more casual vibes. But that doesn’t mean all eateries have followed suit—many chefs and owners still have dress codes that require men wear jackets to dinner, as others allow their servers to sport jeans. As the scene continues to evolve, the more difficult it is for diners to crack the varied dress codes, so our team asked top names in the industry at our Forbes Travel Guide star-rated restaurants to discuss what’s proper to wear at their restaurants and why.
Eric Ripert: Chef and co-owner of Five-Star Le Bernardin in New York
Dress code at Le Bernardin: In the lounge, the dress code is casual elegance. In the dining room, men are required to wear jackets but ties are optional.
Has there been a change in dress code at Le Bernardin? At Le Bernardin, we haven’t seen a change. Actually, we see people dressing up more and more. I think it’s a reflection of New Yorkers, who have access to the best fashion houses and stores.
Are the days of suits and fancy dresses gone? Absolutely not. I think people love to dress for the occasion and we’ve noticed at Le Bernardin that even young male clientele wear very beautiful suits with ties that we don’t require.
Michael Minnillo: General manager of Five-Star The French Laundry in Yountville, Calif.
Dress code at The French Laundry: Our policy is jackets required for men—no T-shirts or tennis shoes. The majority of men wear a suit and tie; women wear a dress and heels.
Is the younger generation dressing more casually? I don’t see it here. I would say that we see more younger diners here than at Per Se [in New York]. I think they, in particular, get more dressed up than the older people. They’re the people more apt to wear ties, nice clothes, nice shoes.
Will dress codes evolve to adhere to the trendier dining scene? It all depends on the restaurant. If the restaurant evolves to a more casual setting, then I think the people evolve with it. The people are just trying to be comfortable in the environment. I’m not going to go to a football game and wear a suit because I know what’s expected in that setting. I just think it all depends on the individual restaurant, and a lot of restaurants have evolved to be more casual.
Graham Elliot: Chef and owner of Four-Star Graham Elliot, Grahamwich and g.e.b. in Chicago; judge on MasterChef; culinary director of Lollapalooza
Dress code at Graham Elliot: We say “come as you are.” We are here to provide you with an amazing dining experience, not to judge your wardrobe.
Do you think a more relaxed dress code has to do with a restaurant’s target audience? Perhaps, but I’ve always felt a restaurant should be an extension of the chef/proprietor. I’m into being comfortable, so our servers wear jeans, blazers and Chuck Taylors. Some restaurants seem to mimic the look and feel of other places, so it’s important to stay true to yourself and your vision.
Is fine dining as a whole evolving to be more casual? Yes and no. In some temples of gastronomy, there are some dishes/courses that elicit a laugh and use whimsy and humor. Then, the next course comes with a 20-minute description of the chef’s philosophy on the dish, where it’s from, etc. “Fine dining” should be accessible, but it’s very cost prohibitive (cost of labor and goods are ridiculous), so it’s still quite hard to mesh both worlds.
John Winterman: Maître d’ of Five-Star Daniel in New York
Dress code at Daniel: Jackets required.
Do you think dress codes vary depending on the city? Blaming the city is too easy. There are examples in almost every major city of establishments that adhere to at least some dress code tradition—requiring [dress] pants, for example, or banning baseball caps. New Orleans, Dallas, Savannah all have venerable institutions that demand proper attire. Tradition often carries respect.
What do you think brought on the change in dress codes? One could look at last century’s Kennedy with his relaxed two-button style and disdain for pork pie hats and three-piece suits of his predecessors; but, then again, Reagan ushered in a new style of dressing for dinner—regardless of his second life as a rancher. A more likely culprit is corporate America and the relaxed dress codes, and hotels and restaurants accepting diners of any dress in order to maintain a volume of business. I think the spectrum of dress is likely to have a discerning middle between the ball game and the symphony.
Barbara Lynch: Chef and owner of Barbara Lynch Gruppo in Boston, including Five-Star restaurant Menton and Four-Star No. 9 Park
Dress code at Menton: While Menton doesn’t have a formal dress code, guests definitely dress up more often than not. Earlier in the week, the look is more business oriented with most men in suits. On the weekends, women tend to dress up in more sparkly attire.
How does the dress differ across your restaurants? The Butcher Shop, B&G Oysters and Sportello are my most casual restaurants and guests feel comfortable wearing whatever they’d like. Drink is also very casual, though during the week, there can be a lot of suits with the post-work crowd. On the weekends it runs the gamut from super casual to glam. No. 9 Park and Menton tend to see the most special occasion dining and our guests enjoy dressing up for a special night.
Is Boston a dressy city when it comes to fine dining? There are guests that are very traditional and dress for dinner, and there are others who are really excited about food and what’s new but feel comfortable in more casual attire—I think both exist in Boston.
