Unlike other see-and-be-seen mountain towns, Jackson, Wyoming has always maintained a refreshingly low-key scene—along with a reputation for steep and stunning skiing.
“You could be sitting next to a billionaire and not know it,” is the common refrain from locals. Or, in my case, spot former Vice President Dick Cheney flying commercial at the airport upon arrival.
This year, Jackson Hole Mountain Resort celebrates its 50th anniversary with the opening of the new Teton Lift quad chairlift. It rockets 2,000 people per hour up 1,650 feet in about four minutes and allows access to a part of the mountain that rarely saw tracks.
If you don’t ski, you’ll still be mesmerized by the wide-open vistas and wildlife. Jackson Hole is the name of the valley between the Teton Mountains and the Snake River; the town name is Jackson. As you drive between Jackson and the ski mountain at Teton Village, you’ll see herds of elk, bighorn sheep and bald eagle.
Friday:
3pm: Check into the rustic and elegant Four Seasons Jackson Hole. Make sure to take a dip in the outdoor hot tub, where you can enjoy complimentary poolside s’mores and hot chocolate every day from 3pm to 6pm. Your robes and towels stay toasty in a heated locker.
6pm: Head to downtown Jackson for snacks and shopping. First stop: Persephone Bakery for killer cookies and a spiked hot drink. Outfit yourself for the weekend at
Stio, a store that carries fashion-forward, functional snow gear. MADE and brother store Mountain Dandy sell cool handmade gifts and housewares. Pendleton is stocked with classic printed blankets. (I’m partial to the new Star Wars collector set of four blankets in the window.) If you’re a serious cook, splurge on an American-made chef knife at New West Knife Works. A complete set, housed in a colorful sculptural block, doubles as art for your countertop.
9:30pm: Get the Wild West Instagram you’ve been gunning for at the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar, whose neon sign of a cowboy on a bucking bronco beckons. Saddles take the place of barstools, western memorabilia line the walls and the service is appropriately surly. Pound your bourbon and head for greener pastures.
10pm: A few blocks away, listen to live music and kick up your heels at the Silver Dollar Bar & Grill at the Wort Hotel.
Saturday:
4pm: Après-ski slopeside at Michael Mina’s The Handlebar at the Four Seasons Hotel. Order the elk nachos and frickles (fried pickles), then try your hand at “Shred the Gnar” a game that creates a shot-chaser-beer combination for you. (Example: jalapeno-infused tequila + Bloody Mary mix + Coors Light.)
8pm: For Jackson’s biggest culinary surprise, take a short walk or drive to Teton Thai, the wildly popular casual Thai restaurant in the village. The ingredients (and spice level) are so authentic, you’ll forget you’re in the middle of Wyoming. The papaya salad and curries are complex and flavorful; service is familiar, like hanging out at your cool friend’s house.
Sunday:
9am: After a brief lesson, you’ll be driving about 45 miles on groomed trails to Old Faithful, stopping at waterfalls and canyons along the way. It’s basically like driving through a Christmas card.
12pm: By the time you arrive at Old Faithful, it’s time for lunch. Sandwiches, chips, cookies and hot chocolate are even more satisfying when you consume them in a yurt steps away from the geyser. When Old Faithful erupts, you’ll be one of a handful of people in attendance—unlike the thousands who clamor for a view in the summertime.
2pm: Snowmobile back to Flagg Ranch.
8pm: Walk about 5 minutes across the village to dinner at The Spur at Teton Mountain Lodge, a casual American restaurant with solid bar bites and appetizers like deviled eggs and addictive mini tuna tartare tacos.