I’ve always loved a good Speyside.
But for the past few years—after sampling and hoarding more than a few bottles—I’ve developed a fondness for Japanese whiskies. And for good reason: I’ve never tasted a mediocre Japanese pour. Plus, Japan has been outranking Scotland. (2015’s “World Whisky of the Year” went to Yamazaki Sherry Cask 2013, while the Yamazaki Mizunara 2014 ranks as 2016’s number 5.)
Despite the fact that Japanese whisky is gaining traction in America, availability is still somewhat limited in brick and mortar stores. So I got in touch with Edward Davidson—cofounder and CEO of Japanese whisky specialist and online retailer Dekantā.com—to curate his top ten picks. Davidson (who is originally from Edinburgh, Scotland) started the site to help introduce Japanese whisky to the rest of the world.
“Whisky has a surprisingly long history in Japan. Suntory—the country's first whisky maker— traces its origins back to 1899 and started making whisky in the 1930s,” Davidson says. “A lot has changed since those early days. And now Japanese whiskies are renowned throughout the world for their sophistication. It’s even closer to Scotch than it is to American bourbon. It’s even spelled ‘whisky’ instead of ‘whiskey.’ Japanese whiskies are known for their mild and smooth taste, which makes them easy to drink. And they are designed to appeal to the Japanese palate and if you are well-versed in Japanese food, you know what that means.”
HIBIKI 30-YEAR
“Suntory’s Hibiki label is one of the most popular Japanese whiskies. It has won more international awards than any other whisky from Japan, including trophies from the International Spirits Challenge in 2004, 2006, and 2008—including the coveted title of ‘World’s Best Blended Whisky’ at the World Whiskies Awards in 2007 and 2008.” Davidson says. “Fun fact: It’s also the whisky Bill Murray was drinking in Lost in Translation. The cream of the crop is the 30-Year. You don’t even have to be a fan of whisky to appreciate it. Like other 30-year whiskies, it doesn’t come cheap—but it’s worth every penny. It has a wide variety of aromas, including marzipan, orange marmalade, nutmeg, apricot jam, quinces, chamomile and many, many others. In my view, it’s the perfect blend.”
YAMAZAKI 18-YEAR
“Another favorite of mine and my customers. The Yamazakis are all splendid but the 18-year is as good a single malt as they get. It continues to win awards at international competitions and was named the best whisky in the world (for 2015) by renowned whisky expert Jim Murray. The Yamazaki is so popular with our customers that we struggle to keep up with the demand. The character of the whisky itself? The nose has plenty of nut oils and zest along with a floral scent. The palate is smooth, soft, and somewhat sweet—with a medium finish.”
SUNTORY CHITA GRAIN WHISKY
“Generally speaking I’m not a big fan of grain whiskies,” Davidson notes. “But this comes out surprisingly well. With a fresh sweetness to it—and a hint of mango and lemon.”
YOICHI 12-YEAR
“The Yoichi comes from Nikka's oldest distillery, also named Yoichi, located in Hokkaido—Japan's northernmost island. A long-time favorite of Japanese whisky lovers and one of Nikka's finest products, Yoichi is defined by a powerfully peaty taste,” Davidson says. “Bottles from this distillery often remind whisky lovers of whiskies from the northern regions of Scotland.”
TAKETSURU 17-YEAR
“Another excellent product from Nikka, this one is named after Masataka Taketsuru, the founder of the company. (You know a product’s good when it’s named after the company’s founder.) The Taketsuru is extremely smooth, full bodied, and wonderfully easy to drink.”
KARUIZAWA 15-YEAR
“Something of a legend in the world of Japanese whisky, the Karuizawa distillery is a ‘silent’ distillery—meaning it’s no longer operational. Karuizawa labels are excellent whiskies and fetch a fortune on the secondary market. Last August, a bottle of 1960 Karuizawa sold at a Hong Kong auction for $118,500,” Davidson says. “Some Karuizawa bottles are of course too valuable for most of us to drink. But the cheapest ones sell for a few hundred dollars, among them the Karuizawa 15-year.”
NIKKA FROM THE BARREL
“Nikka From the Barrel is, well, from the barrel…and it has been a big hit with Western whisky lovers because it’s a cheap (but excellent) entry point for those trying Japanese whisky for the first time. It’s easy to drink and is characterized by an extremely smooth taste with hints of vanilla and mustard.”
ICHIRO’S MALT THE COLORED JOKER
“Ichiro is the newest player in the Japanese whisky business and already something of a legend. He comes from a family that’s been in the drinks business since the 1600s. His father ran the now-defunct Hanyu distillery, but Ichiro bought the stock and marketed it as the Ichiro’s Malt Card Series. The bottles are highly sought after: The whole series of 54 cards is worth around half-a-million dollars. Ichiro is widely admired in the whisky business for the zeal he puts into making his whiskies. It’s difficult to pick a favorite—but I’m going to go with one of the bottles in the Card Series: the Joker. The Joker is a very rich and complex whisky, with some floral notes and sandalwood, and some gingerbread and vanilla as well.”
MARS KOMAGATAKE
“Mars Shinshu is the third most prominent whisky maker in Japan…far smaller than Suntory and Nikka, but far larger than anyone else,” Davidson says. “Mars has something of a cult following in Japan. A bartender who regularly writes for us at Dekantā tells me that it’s a very important company for him. Their premium product is the Komagatake—a well-balanced whisky. A bit fruity and light, it continues to surprise people who don’t expect much from this lesser known distillery.”
EIGASHIMA'S WHITE OAK AKASHI
“Another feature of the Japanese whisky business is the smattering of small companies that make whiskies on the side and sell them locally. The Japanese call theses bottles ‘ji-whisky’ (meaning local whisky.) They tend not to be comparable to the larger makers in quality but can nevertheless be charming in their own right. Of the many ji-whisky companies in Japan, Eigashima in Hyogo Prefecture is my favorite. Its main product is a whisky named White Oak Akashi—an easy-to-drink blend with chocolate, honey, and fruit flavors.”
