Exotic, historic, unusual, adventurous and geologically stunning. That’s pretty much the Holy Grail for the transformational travel we’re seeking in 2016.
It’s little wonder that the influential travel site Skift named Oman its number one “big, soul-satisfying place to visit” last year. “Laid-back and slow in the tumultuous Arab world sounds like an oxymoron, but in Oman’s case, it happens to be true, due to its history on the crossroads of the sea-trading world; that pioneering culture brought in different influences from around the world…. Sultan Qaboos is as benevolent a monarch as you would find in that part of the world and has been responsible for the country’s exceptional religious tolerance,” wrote Skift’s Rafat Ali. “Oman packs a lot in a small package, with desert, rugged coast and beaches, water sports and diving, forts-every-few-miles, green valleys, old school bazaars and old school Arabian hospitality.”
After a recent visit, I’m inclined to agree. This often-ignored country in the shadows of towering Abu Dhabi and Dubai is something special. (Disclosure: My stay was bankrolled by Oman’s tourism ministry and several hotels.) While its neighbors throb with the pulse of the future, Oman comfortably hums along in its mix of tradition-steeped past and optimistic present. I never felt unsafe because of unrest elsewhere in the Middle East, nor as a (modestly dressed) woman traveling alone.
That relaxed energy is especially evident in Muscat, a city of 1.5 million that remains low-slung and charming. The Sultan has decreed that new buildings can’t be more than seven stories (a few 20-story buildings are grandfathered in) and everything must be in traditional whitewashed style and nestled comfortably into the craggy mountains that the city seems, impossibly, to rise from. It’s as if the Omanis are beyond bling: After all, aren’t the sea and sky more striking?
Here are six reasons to see the sultanate’s capital now.
Al Bustan Palace
If you’ve gone this far, you may as well go all in. Built as private, palatial lodging for the Sultan’s friends, associates and delegates to the first GCC summit in Oman, in 1985, the hotel maintains aspirations of grandeur. The 125-foot-high atrium was designed to evoke the mountain of the same height that was demolished to make way for the building. The stunning chandelier that now drips down 60 sparkling feet contains some 70,000 bulbs—the communications director told the same crew who cleans the windows at the Burj Khalifa in Dubai rappel down to change the lights here.
For now, retro glamour is a big part of the hotel’s appeal, but a refreshment of the 250 rooms and suites is planned for later this year. Already the services are up to Western standards—with a solid sense of place and a heavy dash of Omani hospitality—thanks to confident management by Ritz-Carlton. The Friday Veuve Clicquot brunch is a big draw for local expats and hotel guests, the beach is lovely and has a friendly water sports staff—a kayaking guide asked me if I was up for a spontaneous spin on his brother’s powerboat—and the lavish new Six Senses spa has 17 treatment rooms, extensive water facilities and excellent therapists, and is an attraction in its own right.
The Bait al Zubair Museum
There are bigger museums in Muscat, but the most interesting is this beautifully curated private collection that is displayed in a restored traditional home. The historical women’s clothing—especially the wedding garments—and jewelry are spectacular.
The Royal Opera House Muscat
Try to see a performance, at least sign on for one of the tours that are offered every morning in order to take in the traditional architecture and exquisite craftsmanship. Not to compete with his neighbors but to bring international culture to his people, the Sultan built this palace to the arts in 2011. As there aren’t yet many Omani preforming arts groups, international stars such as Placido Domingo and Yo Yo Ma have graced his stage.
Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque
When the Sultan built this lavish mosque several years ago, one of his missions was to make it accessible to non-Muslim Westerners (a rarity on the Arabian Peninsula), in order that we might glimpse the beauty of Islam. Before the sheikh of Abu Dhabi built his massive mosque, this one claimed the region’s superlatives: biggest size, largest carpet and most exquisite mosaic work. It's still beautiful.
Dune bashing
A regional pastime, this adrenaline-pumper involves driving (or rather, being driven in) SUVs up, down and around the massive sand dunes in the Empty Quarter, the huge sandy desert that sprawls across Oman, the UAE and Saudi Arabia. Book a desert excursion with Arabica Orient Tours, an upstart local company that has connections with the best driver-guides: I was in the passenger seat next to a veteran who had test-driven new vehicles on the dunes for Toyota and Nissan. (The Japanese engineers cried with joy, he recalls.)
Wadis
Oman has the most varied nature in the region, with beaches, deserts and even green(ish) mountains. But none is more important than wadis, the lush desert oases where Omanis picnic and hike. A smart day trip from Muscat is Wadi Al Arbeieen—with some dune bashing and a visit to a Bedouin home on the way, courtesy of Arabica Orient—which has a swimmable pool and a restaurant.
There is no direct service between Oman and North America, but Qatar Airways is a fine way to get there. (And I’d say that even if the airline hadn’t comped me.) Qatar has daily flights from Philadelphia, Miami, New York, Chicago, DC, Houston and Dallas to Doha, and 31 flights a week from Doha to Muscat. It’s worth noting that the timings are tricky. Most flights from North America arrive in Muscat in the late evening, so it’s worth investing in a driver. And the flights from Doha to North America are quite early, meaning you’ll likely be looking at an overnight in Doha. A fine place to spend it is at the Ritz-Carlton, midway between the airport and the city center, with a lovely pool, its own lavish Six Senses spa and several very good restaurants.
