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Wednesday Night Wine: Sparkling Wine From Brazil

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Sparkling wine, these days, ranks right up there with rosé as some of the trendiest choices for wine drinkers. We see both of those options taking up more space on supermarket shelves, restaurant wine lists, and retailers from coast to coast.

A very big thanks for the growth in sparkling wine goes to Prosecco, who has contributed greatly in recent years to both the demand and the supply in the sparkling category. A range of wines, from a wide range of sources, are riding in the wake of Prosecco's success, particularly as its growth enables it to inch higher up in price.

Today, as we continue our series of Wednesday Night Wine recommendations, we'll take a closer look at an unexpected player among those vying to slot right beside Prosecco on the shelf: sparkling wine from Brazil.

Brazilian sparklers are still new to the U.S. market, but their popularity and success is well-established at home. According to Evan Goldstein MS, a leading authority on South American wines, almost one-third of Brazil's domestic sales of fine wine, and close to one-fifth of total domestic wine sales, are in bubbles. Prices suit budgets from the everyday to the special occasion, and styles are similarly wide-ranging, from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay blends made in the Champagne method all the way to frizzante Moscatels.

Here are five surprising sparkling wines, from producers to watch, all from one surprising place.

NV Lidio Carraro Dádivas Espumante Brut

Lidio Carraro's exceptionally talented winemaker, Monica Rosseti, also consults on sparkling wine production in Italy. Although the brand is known, justifiably so, for its no-oak program that yields truly unique red wines, Rosseti's talent shines through the brand's sparkling wine production as well. The Brut, made from 90% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir, shows aromas of pineapple, melon, and white flowers, with a refined, creamy palate. Intense, versatile, and lingering.

NV Casa Valduga 130 Brut

It's especially exciting to find a new wine on the market from an importer you know and respect. Valduga has recently been picked up by Heritage Link Brands which, until now, has focused exclusively on wines from South Africa. I agree that they're onto something with Valduga, whose production today is equally still and sparkling wines, with an intention is to continue to grow their sparkling portfolio. (Ten years ago their sparkling production was only 20%.) Valduga launched their 130 line in 2005, to commemorate the family's arrival in Brazil 130 years earlier. Golden color, with notes of intense dried fruit and toasted almonds. Aged 36 months on the lees.

NV Miolo Cuvée Tradition Brut

Both Valduga (above) and Miolo are market leaders in Brazil's enotourism sector, and this wine reminds me why: it's perfectly sippable and very refreshing, with aromas of tropical fruit and toasted brioche, and it's exactly the wine you want in your glass when you're outside and soaking in a wine country afternoon or evening. Equal parts Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, made in the traditional method, this wine's low alcohol level (12% ABV) adds to its ease and friendliness.

NV Salton Intenso Sparkling Brut

Salton has been making sparkling wine in Brazil since 1930. Their expertise is apparent, and it's informed by the current generation's eagerness to study and work in wine regions elsewhere (in this case, France and Argentina). That openness makes an impact in a number of ways, including Salton's status as the largest producer of fair trade wine in Brazil and its production of this best-seller abroad. Made from 70% Chardonnay and 30% Riesling Italico, the Intenso Sparkling Brut is rich with notes ripe pear, lush white jasmine, orange, and lemon zest.

NV Pizzato Fausto Brut Rosé Tradicional

Pizzato holds the distinction of making the first "cult wine" of Brazil (their 1999 Merlot) and of being the first Brazilian wine to be carried in First Class flights (by British Airways). So it's worth noting that they've started making sparkling wine only in the past ten years, but what's especially curious is the persistent "hit" in their sparkling wines of the characteristics that make their still wines unique. For me, in this rosé, it's the warm, spicy note of cinnamon that's complemented by cherry and strawberry aromas and a touch of gingery heat.

Cathy Huyghe is the author of Hungry for Wine: Seeing the World through the Lens of a Wine Glass. Find her online at cathyhuyghe.com.