Lynnette Marrero on Competitions, Women in the Industry and the Romance of Rum

Ask Lynnette Marrero what she does and you might get any of these as a response: cocktologist, spirit guide, philanthropist, cocktail evangelist or co-founder of Speed Rack. Still, she doesn’t understand why calling out women in the industry might be perceived by some to be unnecessary or anti-feminist (as if to imply that women can stand on their own merit and not need to be called out for their gender).

“I understand the desire to want to be just seen as a great bartender and not qualify the gender, but I do believe in general our society has a long way to go before women are considered equals,” Marrero says. “ In the 1980’s, bartending was the occupation in which women’s lib had gained the most ground in advancement. I think today this is still true.”

She's the national brand mixologist for Perrier Sparkling Natural Mineral water in addition to working with the Zacapa Rum team as their trade and mixology ambassador in New York City, where she’s based when she’s not traveling. In 2009, she was awarded the James Beard Foundation award as one of America’s Leading Female Mixologists.

Marrero took time out of her busy schedule to talk about mixology competitions, why she felt it was necessary to start a competition just for women, how she balances it all, and why rum is having a moment right now.

The mixology competitions have, for the most part, favored men. On occasion you might see a woman compete, but it’s unusual. What prompted you to start a national cocktail competition for female bartenders?

Although statistically there are fewer women in the top tier competitions, you have to acknowledge that they have performed quite well. Kate Gerwin was the first woman to win the Bols [Around the World] competition and this year in World Class, Canada and the Netherlands had two stellar competitors Lauren Mote and Tess Posthumas.

When Ivy Mix came to me about starting Speed Rack, it was because I was the president of LUPEC [Ladies United for the Preservation of Endangered Cocktails] in New York City and our goals were to promote women bartenders and distillers all while supporting women’s-based charities. Ivy had been a part of several of our events. When she moved to NYC there were a shortage of women behind the stick in cocktail bars and it was hard to get spots at the top bars. This was not the case when I started in 2004/2005. [At that time], there were so few craft cocktail bartenders [that] people were promoted if they were willing to basically work harder and get paid less than the club bar jobs!

So the idea was to create a competition, based on classic cocktails, that would give the ladies an opportunity to showcase their talents and say “look at me! Hire me!”

The charity aspect was a natural fit. Ivy and I love philanthropy and wanted to structure the competition so that 100% of the consumer dollars would go directly to help people. Breast Cancer was a natural fit. It is something that affects a lot of people.

Some would say that it’s unnecessary to call out women for their work in this industry because it’s anti-feminist. We don’t call out men simply because they’re men. How do you respond to these statements, which I’ve heard from both men and women?

I personally enjoy being a woman and all that being a woman brings to the table. I believe Jim Meehan has a great position on this. I think the dynamic of both men and women in a bar is awesome. Most of my business partners are men.

As I stated before, when I started there was not a focus on gender, just if you can do the job. Sasha Petraske hired bartenders male and female and they all took turns behind the bar and on the floor. An egalitarian society!

I understand the desire to want to be just seen as a great bartender and not qualify the gender, but I do believe in general our society has a long way to go before women are considered equals. I mean, will we finally have a female president? In the 1980’s bartending was the occupation in which women’s lib had gained the most ground in advancement. I think today this is still true.

Look at Ladies of American Distilleries [LOAD]! They are promoting the female run distilleries and they are still a minority. Lorena Vasquez [Zacapa Rum] is one of the few master distillers in the world.

In 2009, you were honored with a James Beard Award as one of America’s Leading Female Mixologists. What did that recognition mean to you and for other women interested in a career in this field?
 

I was quite honored that year to be honored alongside many of my mentors, including Julie Reiner and Audrey Saunders. For me it was a turning point to decide where I wanted to go in this industry. I had just started working with Zacapa Rum, consulting on bars, cocktail-chairing large culinary events and I decided I wanted to see where the industry could take me. For a while that was geared towards opening my own bar, which I may still do someday. Opening a bar is like having a child. It needs constant attention for about 3-5 years. I realized that I love doing many things all at once. I love the challenge of problem solving for clients, so consulting has been very satisfying for me.

Changing directions: Rum seems to be having its moment right now. You’re also a National Rum Educator and Mixology Ambassador for Zacapa Rum. What about this spirit excites you?

My favorite quote about rum comes from James Beard, he says, “Of all the spirits in your liquor cabinet, Rum is the most romantic.”

I love its versatility and its ability to express the unique characteristics of where it comes from. Rum is very in tune with Terroir and really expresses the culture it is from.

Rum is extremely versatile. I have been a rum advocate for a very long time, since Brian Miller and I consulted on Elettaria in 2008. I have had the wonderful opportunity to learn so much from Lorena, the master distiller at Zacapa. She pours her whole passion into the rum. I think that is what rum does, it enchants.

How do you balance all of your professional roles, although I realize they’re all intertwined?

Ha! I have to say it is quite a balancing act doing so many things but as you note, they are all intertwined. I get the opportunity to travel and educate the next generation of amazing bartenders through my work with Speed Rack and World Class. This is the best part of my job. It is the constant sharing of ideas that make this industry so exciting.

Luckily, I get to take all of that experience and help my clients, such as Zacapa Rum and Perrier Sparkling water, to understand the industry better and address our needs specifically.

Also, traveling globally is where I get to continue as a lifelong learner. It is akin to my PhD.

What’s the hardest thing about this industry that most people who aren’t in it wouldn’t understand? 

What is it like to have a long-term successful marriage, while being involved in the cocktail world. My husband is a day walker! For most of our marriage we have had opposite schedules. We have been married for nearly 12 years. I actually started the Flatiron Lounge a month after we got married.

I call him my favorite cocktail garnish because drinks are better when he is around! He is quite adored by the bar community. He supports me in all of my endeavors (he designed the Speed Rack logo).

It is not easy to keep relationships in our industry. They take a lot more work. You either date within the industry and have to balance 2 work schedules that can be complicated or date outside and have to explain to someone who doesn’t work in the industry that it is normal for you to come home at 5am on Saturday morning from Friday night shift and sleep until noon.

Who do you most admire, and why?


I would always say my dad. He is a self-made man and worked extremely hard to provide opportunities for my sisters and I. I learned a lot of my work ethic from him. He also quickly accepted that his Ivy League kid was going to be a bartender! I guess as an actor I primed him for that one.

What’s the one tool behind the bar that you couldn’t live without?

My one tool, hmmm, has to be a good bar spoon. A good one to crack ice, stir, and sub as a swizzle stick!

What’s your wish or focus for 2016?

I would love to present at more global conferences. I have been lucky enough to present at Tales Of The Cocktail, Berlin Bar Convent, and this year am judging the Reykavik bar show and presenting at TOTC Mexico. With Speed Rack, I have had the amazing opportunity to travel the globe and we have expansion to Asia, New Zealand and Australia on the horizon.