It is probably safe to say that I drink more wine than the average person; it’s part of my job (of all the darn luck) to open countless bottles of wine and compare and contrast them. Unfortunately, I do taste a lot of uninspired plonk. This annual column celebrates those wines that made me do a double take; the wines that I kept coming back to over the course of a tasting. They aren’t necessarily perfect, they just wowed me---in a sea of choices, these wines made an impression. A few of the selections made the list because of their value for the buck, delivering a terrific varietal example at terrific price. All of these wines are drinkable now, but many have the potential to age for several years, if not decades. I live for the moment, so I suggest “Carpe Vinum”—drink ‘em now. Note—they are not listed in any specific order.
2005 Chateau Lassegue, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru, (FR)---2005 vintage, one of the finest vintages in Bordeaux history, but most of the vintage has already been sold. Not winemaker Pierre Seillan’s. He held onto his wine all this time because he felt it needed time to develop more. If you missed the Super Vintage Boat, sigh no more…Chateau Lassegue is here.
2013 Robert Oatley Margaret River Chardonnay, (AU)--- only 16 bucks for mouthwatering lemony-creaminess. Notes of peach and tangerine round out the palate; the wine is fresh, delightful and rich in a savory fashion. A knockout value.
2012 Ponzi Vineyards Chardonnay Reserve, Willamette Valley, (OR)---Oregon chardonnay is just knockout delicious, if you haven’t tried any, then start with this one. The nose has lemons and lime; palate is juicy and mouthwatering but with folds of creamy texture. Better than most reds at the table…like a layer cake of peach, clementine, and citrus.
2009, Clos de la Tech, Domaine Lois Louise (CA)----Made from grapes grown on absurdly steep hillsides, the zingy, fresh, cherry-raspberry notes deliver an endless finish. Overall you get layers of sun-warmed fruit tempered by earthy spice notes. A complex and intriguing pinot noir
2008 Castello di Magione, Morcinaia, (IT)—Supple, velvety texture, with ripe red fruits with rustic threads woven into the wine. A big Italian with French sensibilities, elegant and lovely but with power and structure.
2011 Vina Valera, Vinas Viejas, Ribera del Duero, (SP)----A fine red that gets high marks because it delivers supple beguiling fruit and earth for only $25 a bottle. Made from 100% tinto fino (aka tempranillo), the grapes come from some of the oldest vines in Ribera del Duero (over 90 years). The nose is ripe with blackberries, some wild herbs and just the barest hint of mocha. Great structure; supple and warm like a sun-drenched Spanish hillside.
2009 Santa Carolina Herencia Carmenere. (Chile) This sultry, concentrated Carmenere just stole the show at our dinner of roasted lamb and potatoes. Threads of mocha and dark chocolate are intertwined with black fruits and warm spices. Complexity and suppleness lend a lingering mouthfeel and finish. Great bones and an iconic wine from Chile’s 138 year-old Santa Carolina winery.
2010 Cadaretta Cabernet Sauvignon. (WA) This is a wine with big dollar sensibilities at a great price. At $40 a bottle this wine drinks like a $75 wine. Silky and elegant with notes of cardamom, spices, currant, and black cherry. A nice mineral quality keeps it fresh on the palate. The finish is lingering, sensual. Made with 75% cabernet sauvignon, 17% merlot and a bit of petit verdot and malbec---all grapes sourced from five different Washington state appellations. A blend of a blend and it’s a winner.
2011 Craggy Range Sophia Gimblett Gravels (NZ)—A delightful red that hails from Gimblett Gravels, a fabulous region for Bordeaux varietals in Hawke’s Bay New Zealand. The palate has a mouth-watering tart cherry freshness woven into spice and cedar. Precise in structure (you can age it for a decade at least), the tannins have just a bit of pucker, but the overall impression is silky and elegant. Made from the best estate grapes, a blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and petit verdot.
2012 Drew Fog Eater Pinot Noir (CA)----This Anderson Valley pinot noir is one of the appellation’s finest expressions. Winemaker Jason Drew just doesn’t make a bad wine (if he does, we never see it), and this is one of my favorites in his line-up. Finely tuned, with high-toned fruit notes, some clove and cherry, and a lovely suppleness on the palate. Just yum.
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