Bitters have long been a summer classic in Europe -- and recently Americans have started to catch on to their low-proof, enjoyably bracing pleasures, with the Italian digestifs Aperol and Campari relishing a solid run in the U.S.
“The American palate loves to be shocked and challenged,” and Italian bitters--also known as amari-- fill the bill nicely, says Pamela Wiznitzer, New York president of the United States Bartenders' Guild and Creative Director at trendy Upper East Side bar Seamstress NY, where patrons are invited to mix up their own cocktails.
“[There’s been] a huge increase in drinks offered with both Campari and Aperol,” Wiznitzer says. This is likely in part thanks to the reemergence of two classic cocktails that are easy to make and easy to drink –the Negroni, which is equal parts sweet vermouth, Camapari and gin, and the Aperol Spritz, a concoction of Aperol, prosecco and a dash of soda.
Wiznitzer says it’s that simplicity that is driving their popularity. “A cocktail that only has three ingredients is quick to prepare in a bar and can also be replicated at home,” she says. “There's nothing more appealing to a guest at a bar than learning that the cocktail they are enjoying can be crafted in their very own home (and for low cost). And they both taste so damn good!”
The Negroni in particular got a boost starting two years ago, when Imbibe magazine and Campari declared the first week in June (not coincidentally this week) Negroni Week. Bars internationally are encouraged to offer up their own interpretations of the classic, then donate a percentage of the sales of each drink to charity. Last year, the effort raised more than $120,000. For its part, Campari will donate $10,000 in the name of a bar that raises the most during Negroni week. Last year, HG Sply Co. in Dallas was the top fundraiser.
Because of the complexity of the spirits –both Aperol and Campari are made from a secret combination of herbs and roots, with some citrus and a hint of sweetness—and striking color, each one brings a lot of flavor without a lot of effort. Choosing between the two is mostly a matter of your desire for bitterness – Campari is very, very bitter, with some vegetal notes, where Aperol is a bit more refined. At about 11 percent ABV, it’s also lower in alcohol than Campari, at 23 percent.
“I find that Campari and Aperol are two amari that truly mix with every spirit on the market,” Wiznitzer says. “Because Campari is so bold, it can stand up next to really intense liquors like spicy 100 percent ryes, peaty scotches, botanical gins and mezcals. Aperol is refined and can accentuate spirits like vodka, Irish whiskey, sparkling wine and cognacs that have a lot of floral and fruit notes that can often get lost when mixed.”
Because it is lower proof, Aperol is also taking a place at brunch, a fresh alternative to old standbys Bloody Marys, Mimosas and screwdrivers, Wiznitzer says. “The Aperol Spritz has really come back as a popular brunch and low proof option for drinkers,” she adds. “With the increase in global travel and people eating out more frequently, trends from across the pond have found their way to the American eating scene.” In addition to the classics, Wiznitzer suggests trying Campari in a Jungle Bird cocktail or with gin and fresh grapefruit juice at brunch. Try Aperol in the Seamstress "No Say" cocktail, in a negroni variation with Lillet rose and tequila or on the rocks with a slice of grapefruit.
